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Surly Preamble Maintenance

Processing · Literature Review Created Jan 24, 2025
Project: maintenance
cyclingmaintenanceequipment

The Preamble is designed for low-maintenance reliability, but every bike needs care. This guide covers the specific maintenance requirements for the Preamble’s components—what’s different from generic procedures, what to watch for, and how to keep this bike running for decades.

For general maintenance principles, see the companion bicycle maintenance guide.

Steel Frame Care

Steel’s advantage is durability; its vulnerability is rust. The Preamble’s ED coating provides excellent protection, but steel frames still need attention, especially in wet climates.

Protecting the ED Coating

The electrophoretic deposition (ED) coating bonds to the steel at a molecular level—far stronger than standard paint adhesion. Your job is to protect the paint layer on top of it.

Handling chips and scratches:

  1. Clean the area with isopropyl alcohol
  2. If rust has started, remove it with fine sandpaper (400+ grit)
  3. Apply touch-up paint (nail polish works for small chips)
  4. For larger areas, use automotive touch-up paint matched to Surly’s colors

Regular cleaning:

  • Wash with mild soap and water
  • Avoid pressure washers—they force water into bearings and cable housing
  • Dry the frame after wet rides, especially around bolt heads and cable stops

Preventing Internal Rust

Water enters steel frames through the seat tube, headset, and bottom bracket. Once inside, it can rust the frame from within—invisible until the tube walls thin and fail.

Frame saver application:

  1. Remove the seatpost
  2. Spray frame saver (Boeshield T-9, Weigle Frame Saver, or similar) into the seat tube
  3. Rotate the bike to coat internal surfaces
  4. Let excess drain
  5. Repeat into the head tube if removing the fork for service
  6. Apply annually, or after any extended wet riding

Drain holes: Some steel frames have drain holes at the bottom bracket. The Preamble doesn’t, so water that enters will pool there. After wet rides, invert the bike briefly to let water drain from the seat tube.

Winter and Salt

Road salt accelerates steel corrosion dramatically. If you commute through salted roads:

  • Rinse the frame (especially undersides) after every ride
  • Apply frame saver more frequently—every few months
  • Inspect for chips and touch up immediately
  • Consider applying a wax or sealant to vulnerable areas

microSHIFT Acolyte Drivetrain

The Acolyte 1x8 drivetrain is simpler than multi-ring setups—no front derailleur, no barrel adjuster calibration for multiple chainrings. Maintenance focuses on the rear derailleur and the clutch mechanism.

Cable Tension Adjustment

The Acolyte uses a barrel adjuster at the rear derailleur. The principles are identical to any indexed drivetrain:

  1. Shift to the smallest cog (highest gear)
  2. While pedaling, shift to the second-smallest cog
  3. If the shift hesitates or won’t complete: turn barrel adjuster counter-clockwise (more tension)
  4. If the chain overshoots to the third cog: turn barrel adjuster clockwise (less tension)
  5. Adjust in quarter-turn increments, testing after each

Common issue: New cables stretch during the first few rides. Expect to add tension (counter-clockwise) after 50-100 miles on a new cable.

B-Tension Adjustment

The B-tension screw (or B-limit screw) controls the gap between the upper pulley and the cassette. Incorrect B-tension causes poor shifting, especially in the larger cogs.

Checking B-tension:

  1. Shift to the largest cog (lowest gear)
  2. Measure the gap between the upper pulley and the largest cog
  3. Correct gap: 11-13mm for the Acolyte
  4. Too close: risk of pulley hitting cog; chain can jam
  5. Too far: sluggish shifting into large cogs; chain may skip

Adjusting B-tension:

  • B-screw clockwise: increases gap (pulley moves away from cog)
  • B-screw counter-clockwise: decreases gap (pulley moves closer to cog)

The B-tension screw is located where the derailleur mounts to the hanger, typically requiring a Phillips screwdriver.

SpringLock Clutch

The Acolyte rear derailleur includes a clutch mechanism (SpringLock) that reduces chain slap on rough terrain. The clutch adds friction to the derailleur’s movement, keeping the chain taut over bumps.

Engaging/disengaging:

  • Locate the lever on the back of the derailleur body
  • Flip toward the body to engage (clutch on)
  • Flip away from the body to disengage (clutch off)

When to disengage:

  • Removing the rear wheel (clutch makes it harder to pull the wheel past the derailleur)
  • Working on the drivetrain
  • If shifting becomes sluggish (indicates the clutch needs service)

Clutch maintenance: The clutch uses grease internally. If it becomes sticky or loses tension, it can be serviced, but this is advanced work—consider shop service if the clutch feels wrong.

Cable Replacement

The Acolyte uses standard shift cable (1.1-1.2mm diameter). The routing is conventional:

  1. Shift to smallest cog (releases cable tension)
  2. Cut or uncrimp the cable end
  3. Loosen the pinch bolt on the derailleur
  4. Pull the old cable out through the shifter
  5. Feed new cable through shifter, along housing route, through barrel adjuster
  6. Pull cable taut, tighten pinch bolt (5mm hex typically)
  7. Leave 2-3 inches of extra cable, then crimp end cap
  8. Adjust tension as described above

Housing: The Acolyte works with standard shift housing. Compressionless housing (like Jagwire Pro or Yokozuna Reaction) improves shift feel but isn’t required.

Cassette Compatibility

The stock Acolyte cassette is 12-42T. The derailleur can handle cassettes up to 46T, which provides easier climbing if you need it.

If replacing the cassette:

  • 8-speed cassettes fit the Preamble’s hub
  • HG spline pattern (Shimano-compatible)
  • microSHIFT, Shimano, and SRAM 8-speed cassettes all work
  • Consider 11-42T if you want a tighter spread, or 11-46T for maximum range

Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brakes

The BB7 has been the workhorse mechanical disc brake for over twenty years. Its killer feature: tool-free pad adjustment via two red knobs. Mastering these knobs is the key to happy BB7 ownership.

Understanding Pad Adjustment

Unlike hydraulic brakes that self-adjust, mechanical brakes need manual pad positioning as pads wear. The BB7 has two adjustment points:

Inboard pad (red knob on the caliper body):

  • This pad is fixed relative to the rotor
  • Adjusts how close the pad sits to the rotor
  • Turn clockwise to move pad closer to rotor

Outboard pad (red knob near the cable):

  • This pad moves when you squeeze the lever
  • Adjusts the “resting” position of the moving pad
  • Turn clockwise to move pad closer to rotor

The Adjustment Process

Proper BB7 adjustment uses an important principle: the inboard (stationary) pad should be closer to the rotor than the outboard (moving) pad. The ratio is approximately 1:2—the inboard gap should be half the outboard gap.

Why? When you squeeze the lever, the outboard pad moves inward. If it travels the same distance as the inboard gap, both pads contact the rotor simultaneously. If the inboard pad is already closer, it contacts first, the rotor flexes slightly toward the outboard pad, and both engage smoothly.

Adjustment steps:

  1. Loosen both red knobs several turns (counter-clockwise)
  2. Verify the caliper is centered on the rotor (loosen mounting bolts, squeeze lever, retighten while holding)
  3. Turn the inboard knob (on caliper body) clockwise until the pad just touches the rotor, then back off 1/4 turn
  4. Turn the outboard knob (near cable) clockwise until that pad just touches the rotor, then back off 1/2 turn
  5. Spin the wheel—no rubbing should occur
  6. Squeeze the lever—both pads should engage, rotor should stay centered
  7. Fine-tune: if rotor deflects toward either side, adjust that pad back slightly

Cable Tension vs Pad Position

A common mistake: using the brake cable barrel adjuster to compensate for pad wear. This creates excessive lever travel and mushy feel.

Correct approach: Always adjust pads first. The cable barrel adjuster should only fine-tune lever feel after pads are properly positioned.

If your lever pulls too far before engaging:

  1. First, move both pads closer to the rotor (clockwise on both red knobs)
  2. Only then, if lever feel is still loose, add slight cable tension

Pad Replacement

Replace pads when the friction material is less than 3mm thick (total, including backing plate). Worn pads reduce braking power and can damage rotors.

Replacement procedure:

  1. Remove wheel
  2. Turn both red knobs fully counter-clockwise (backs pads all the way out)
  3. Remove the pad retention screw (T25 Torx, some models use 3mm hex)
  4. Slide pads out from the top of the caliper
  5. Note pad orientation (friction material faces inward)
  6. Install new pads—they should click into place
  7. Replace retention screw
  8. Adjust pads as described above
  9. Reinstall wheel

Pad types: The BB7 uses Avid/SRAM pad shapes. Organic (resin) pads are quieter and gentler on rotors. Metallic (sintered) pads last longer and work better in wet/muddy conditions but are noisier.

Housing and Cable Requirements

The BB7 works best with compressionless brake housing—stiff housing that doesn’t flex under load. This matters more for brakes than for shifters because braking forces are much higher.

Recommended housing: Jagwire KEB-SL, Yokozuna, or SRAM SlickWire. Standard coiled brake housing works but creates spongier lever feel.

Cable: Standard 1.5mm brake cable. Stainless steel cables resist corrosion better than galvanized.

Break-In Period

New pads need bedding to reach full power. This isn’t superstition—the pad surface needs to transfer material to the rotor, creating compatible friction surfaces.

Bedding procedure:

  1. Find a safe space to ride (empty parking lot, quiet road)
  2. Accelerate to moderate speed (15-20 mph)
  3. Apply brake firmly but don’t lock the wheel
  4. Slow to walking speed, release brake, repeat
  5. Do 20-30 cycles per brake
  6. Avoid complete stops during bedding—heat buildup can glaze pads
  7. Let brakes cool before normal riding

After bedding, braking power should be noticeably stronger and more consistent.

Wheel and Tire Care

The Preamble’s stock wheels are serviceable but not exceptional. Basic maintenance extends their life until you’re ready to upgrade.

Wheel Size Considerations

Remember: XS and S frames use 650b wheels; M, L, and XL use 700c. If sourcing replacement wheels, tires, or tubes, match your frame size.

650b tubes: 27.5” / 650b, 1.75-2.4” width range for stock tires 700c tubes: 700c, 35-45mm width range for stock tires

Spoke Tension

Check spoke tension monthly by squeezing adjacent pairs. Spokes should feel uniformly tight. Loose spokes cause wheel wobble and eventual fatigue failure.

If individual spokes feel loose or the wheel is out of true, basic truing is possible with a spoke wrench. Complex truing or wheel building is shop work.

Hub Service

The stock Formula hubs use loose ball bearings. Every 1,000-2,000 miles (more often in wet conditions):

  1. Check for play by rocking the wheel side-to-side in the frame
  2. Any clunking or movement indicates loose cones or worn bearings
  3. Cone adjustment requires thin cone wrenches (13mm or 15mm depending on hub)

For most riders, annual hub service at a shop is simpler than DIY.

Cockpit Maintenance

The Preamble’s steel stem and handlebars are low-maintenance but require attention at contact points.

Stem and Bar Interface

Check bolt torque every few months, especially on drop-bar models where hand pressure varies widely across the bar.

Faceplate bolts: Tighten in an X pattern to 5-6 Nm (check Surly’s spec for your model year) Steerer clamp bolts: 5-6 Nm, tighten evenly

Headset Adjustment

The Preamble uses a threadless headset. If steering feels notchy or clunky:

  1. Loosen stem clamp bolts
  2. Tighten top cap bolt until play disappears (don’t overtighten—just snug)
  3. Align stem with front wheel
  4. Retighten stem clamp bolts
  5. Test: lift front wheel and turn bars—should be smooth with no resistance

Notchy feel after adjustment indicates worn headset bearings—shop service required.

Maintenance Schedule: Preamble-Specific

Before every ride:

  • M-check (see general guide)
  • Brake pad clearance (visual check for rubbing)

Weekly / every 100 miles:

  • Chain lubrication
  • Wipe down frame and drivetrain
  • Check tire pressure

Monthly / every 500 miles:

  • Check BB7 pad wear and adjust as needed
  • Inspect chain for stretch (0.5% is replacement time)
  • Check cable tension, adjust barrel adjusters as needed
  • Inspect steel frame for chips, touch up as needed

Seasonally / every 1,500 miles:

  • Deep drivetrain cleaning
  • Inspect clutch function on derailleur
  • Apply frame saver to internal tubes
  • Hub bearing check

Annually:

  • Full cable replacement (shift and brake)
  • Headset bearing inspection
  • Brake pad replacement if needed
  • Shop tune-up for items beyond home mechanic comfort

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