Bicycle Maintenance | Research

A well-maintained bike rides better, lasts longer, and costs less. Most maintenance is simple—cleaning, lubricating, adjusting. The bike shop handles complex work; you handle the rest. This guide covers what every cyclist should know.

The M-Check

Before every ride, run through the M-check—a safety inspection that follows the shape of the letter M across your bike. Two minutes of attention prevents mechanical failure on the road.

Start at the front wheel:

Front tire: Check pressure (squeeze test or gauge), inspect for cuts or embedded debris. A properly inflated tire resists your thumb with firm authority—you can dent it slightly, but it pushes back. An underinflated tire mushes without resistance, feeling almost spongy.
Front brake: Squeeze lever, confirm pads engage evenly and wheel stops firmly. A healthy brake lever has a progressive feel: initial travel takes up slack, then you feel solid resistance as pads engage, stopping cleanly without the lever hitting the handlebar.
Headset: Straddle frame, squeeze front brake, rock bike forward—no clunking means bearings are tight. A loose headset produces a distinct knock, felt through the frame and sometimes audible, as the fork shifts in the head tube. You’re looking for nothing: smooth, silent, solid.
Handlebars: Should be aligned with front wheel, stem bolts secure. Twist the bars while holding the wheel between your knees—any rotation means loose bolts.

Move to the saddle: 5. Seat post: Check it hasn’t slipped; tighten if needed. Reference your saddle height by feel—you’ll notice if it’s dropped even a centimeter. 6. Saddle: Should be level, not tilted. Run your palm across it front to back; it should feel flat, not like sliding downhill.

Down to the drivetrain: 7. Chain: Should be clean and lubricated, not rusted or stiff. Run the chain backward through your fingers. A well-maintained chain feels smooth and sounds quiet—a soft purr. A neglected chain feels gritty, like fine sand between the links, and makes a subtle grinding noise under load. 8. Pedals: Spin freely, no wobble. Give each pedal a spin—it should rotate several times with a smooth, quiet whirr. Grinding sounds or resistance indicate worn bearings. 9. Cranks: No play when you rock them side to side. Grab a crank arm and push it toward and away from the frame. There should be zero movement—any clunking or looseness needs attention before riding.

Finish at the rear: 10. Rear brake: Same check as front 11. Rear tire: Pressure, condition, debris 12. Quick release/thru-axle: Properly secured. A quick-release should require firm palm pressure to close—if it swings freely, it’s not tight enough.

The M-check catches problems before they strand you. Make it habit.

Chain Maintenance

The chain is your drivetrain’s most vulnerable component. Dirt grinds metal; neglect shortens life. Clean and lubricate regularly.

How Often

Lubrication: Every 100-200 miles in dry conditions, more often in wet or dusty conditions. Some riders lube after every wet ride. A dry chain announces itself—you’ll hear a subtle chirping under load, and the links feel stiff when you flex them laterally. A properly lubricated chain sounds almost silent and moves with liquid smoothness.

Cleaning: Every 500-750 miles, or when visibly dirty. Deep cleaning every two to three lubrication cycles if you ride mostly dry pavement.

The rule: Lube a dirty chain and you create grinding paste—a thick, black slurry that acts like liquid sandpaper on your drivetrain. You can feel this residue between your fingers: gritty, dark, with the texture of wet sand. Always clean before lubricating.

The Cleaning Process

Wipe down: Use a rag to remove surface grime while backpedaling the chain through it. Watch the rag blacken as the visible grime transfers; this is the easy layer.
Degrease: Apply degreaser to chain, let it penetrate, scrub with brush. Chain-cleaning tools that clamp around the chain work well. You’ll see the degreaser turn milky as it emulsifies old lubricant and suspended particles.
Rinse: Wipe thoroughly with clean rag. Keep wiping until the rag comes away mostly clean—not pristine, but not leaving black streaks. Avoid high-pressure water—it forces water into bearings.
Dry: Let chain dry completely before lubricating. A clean, dry chain looks matte gray, almost silvery. The links should flex freely, each roller spinning independently without stiffness.

Lubricating

Apply one drop per link while slowly backpedaling. Drip lubricants beat spray—more precise, less overspray onto brake rotors. Listen as you pedal: the chain should gradually quiet from any residual noise.
Let lube penetrate for a few minutes. The lubricant will wick into the rollers through capillary action—you might see it spread along the link plates.
Wipe excess with clean rag. The exterior of the chain should feel barely damp, not wet or sticky. Over-lubrication attracts dirt—if your chain feels like it could drip onto your garage floor, you’ve used too much.

Lube types:

Dry lube: For dry, dusty conditions. Lighter, attracts less grime, washes off in rain
Wet lube: For wet, muddy conditions. Thicker, resists water, attracts more dirt in dry weather

Match lube to conditions. Wrong choice costs either protection or cleanliness.

Fixing a Flat

Every cyclist gets punctures. Carry repair supplies; know the process.

What to Carry

Spare tube (correct size and valve type)
Patch kit (backup to spare tube)
Tire levers (2-3)
Mini pump or CO2 inflator
Tire boot (for sidewall cuts)

The Repair Process

1. Remove the wheel

Release brake (rim brakes) or note rotor position (disc brakes)
Open quick release or thru-axle
Lift wheel free of dropouts

2. Remove the tire

Deflate completely. Presta valves: unscrew locknut, press pin—you’ll hear the hiss as pressure releases. Schrader valves: press center pin with a key or tool.
Insert tire lever under bead, hook to spoke. This takes force—pry firmly until the bead pops over the rim edge with a satisfying snap.
Insert second lever a few inches away, slide around rim to unseat bead. The resistance drops dramatically once the bead releases; it should slide smoothly around the circumference.
Pull out tube

3. Find the puncture

Inflate tube, listen and feel for escaping air. Small holes hiss softly—hold the tube close to your cheek or lip, which are more sensitive than fingertips. You’ll feel a cool stream of air from even tiny punctures.
Submerge in water if needed—bubbles reveal the hole. Even the smallest puncture produces a steady stream of tiny bubbles, sometimes from unexpected locations.
Inspect tire for embedded debris (glass, thorn, wire). Run finger along inside carefully—you’re feeling for the prick of glass shards or the scratch of embedded wire. A thorn may feel like a small bump until you press and it pokes back.

4. Patch or replace

If patching: rough surface with sandpaper until it looks uniformly scuffed (the shiny rubber turns matte). Apply vulcanizing fluid in a thin layer, let dry until tacky—it should feel sticky but not wet when you touch it, about 2-3 minutes. Press patch firmly from center outward to squeeze out air bubbles, then wait before handling.
If replacing: use correctly sized tube

5. Reinstall

Inflate new/patched tube just enough to give it shape—it should hold its circular form but feel soft and pliable, not rigid.
Insert valve through rim hole, tuck tube into tire all around. Work methodically; the tube should nestle into the tire without bunching or twisting.
Starting opposite valve, work tire bead onto rim with thumbs. The last section is the hardest—the bead tightens as more of it seats. Push the seated bead into the rim’s center channel to create slack. You should be able to finish without tire levers; if not, be extremely careful not to pinch the tube.
Check that tube isn’t pinched between tire and rim—run your eye around both sides, looking for the telltale bulge of trapped rubber. This causes immediate re-puncture.
Inflate to recommended pressure (printed on tire sidewall). The bead should seat with a series of soft pops as it snaps into the rim hooks.

6. Reinstall wheel

Seat in dropouts, secure quick release or axle
Reconnect brake if needed
Spin wheel to verify it’s true and brake doesn’t rub

Prevention

Check tire pressure before every ride. Low pressure causes pinch flats
Inspect tires regularly for embedded debris
Replace tires when tread is worn or casing shows through

Brake Adjustment

Brakes should engage firmly without grabbing, release cleanly without rubbing. Learning to feel the difference between proper and problematic brakes is essential.

What Good Brakes Feel Like

A well-adjusted brake has a specific character. The lever should have about 20-30% of its travel as “free stroke”—the dead zone before pads contact the braking surface. Then you feel progressive resistance as braking force builds. The lever should never touch the handlebar, and releasing should be instant and complete, with the wheel spinning freely.

A “spongy” brake feels mushy throughout the stroke—you squeeze and squeeze without building solid resistance, like pressing a foam ball. This indicates air in hydraulic lines or excessive cable slack. A “grabby” brake does the opposite: it goes from nothing to full lock with minimal lever movement, making modulation difficult.

Rim Brakes

Pad alignment: Pads should hit rim squarely, not touch tire, not extend below rim. Loosen pad bolt, position correctly, retighten while holding position. When aligned correctly, you’ll see full pad contact across the rim surface, and the pad will release cleanly without scuffing the tire.

Cable tension: If levers pull too far before engaging, add tension. Turn barrel adjuster (on brake caliper or lever) counter-clockwise, quarter-turn at a time. Test after each adjustment. You’re looking for that sweet spot: enough free stroke for finger placement, then solid resistance without the lever hitting the bar.

Centering: If one pad rubs while the other doesn’t engage, the caliper is off-center. You’ll hear the telltale rhythmic swishing of pad against rim as the wheel turns—sometimes subtle, sometimes loud enough to be annoying. Look for a centering screw on the caliper; turn to shift the spring balance. Or loosen the mounting bolt, squeeze brake lever to center pads, retighten while holding.

Disc Brakes

Pad wear: Look through caliper. If pads are thin (less than 1mm of material), replace them. Worn pads damage rotors.

Rubbing: Disc brake rub is distinctive—a metallic singing or scraping that pulses with wheel rotation. If rotor rubs pad, the caliper may need realignment. Loosen mounting bolts slightly, squeeze brake lever to center caliper on rotor, tighten bolts while holding lever. Spin the wheel and listen: silence means success; any rhythmic noise means the rotor is still catching.

Bleeding: If lever feels spongy—that mushy, unsatisfying resistance—or pulls to the bar without generating power, air is in the hydraulic line. This requires specific tools and fluid—shop work for most home mechanics. Properly bled hydraulic brakes feel solid and immediate, with no squish at the start of the stroke.

Warning Signs

Grinding sound: A harsh, metal-on-metal scraping. Pads worn to backing plate—stop riding immediately; you’re damaging the rotor and have minimal stopping power
Squealing: High-pitched screech, especially when wet. Often contaminated pads (oil, degreaser) or glazed surface
Weak braking: You squeeze hard but the bike doesn’t slow proportionally. Worn pads, contaminated pads, or air in hydraulics
Lever pulls to bar: The lever travels all the way to the grip without generating adequate force. Cable stretch, air in lines, or worn pads

Derailleur Indexing

When gears skip, hesitate, or refuse to shift, the derailleur needs adjustment. Most problems are cable tension—fixable with a barrel adjuster in minutes. Learning to hear and feel these problems is the first step.

Understanding Indexing

Indexed shifting means each click of the shifter moves the derailleur a precise distance to align with the next cog. When cable tension drifts—from cable stretch, housing compression, or temperature changes—alignment suffers.

Symptoms of poor indexing:

Chain hesitates before dropping to next gear: You click the shifter and hear it, but the chain lingers on the old cog for a half-pedal stroke before reluctantly dropping. The shift sounds sluggish rather than crisp.
Chain shifts past intended gear: The opposite—it jumps two cogs instead of one, overshooting your target. This often happens only in one direction.
Chain rattles on certain gears: When stationary on a cog, you hear a rhythmic clicking or chattering, especially under pedaling load. The chain is almost—but not quite—aligned.
Ghost shifting under load: The most unnerving symptom. You’re climbing hard, putting real force through the pedals, and the chain suddenly jumps to an adjacent cog without input. The shock is both auditory (sudden change in pitch) and physical (your legs unexpectedly spin faster or meet more resistance).

The Barrel Adjuster Fix

The barrel adjuster is a threaded cylinder where the cable housing meets the derailleur (or shifter, or inline on the housing). Turning it changes effective cable length, thus tension.

The rule:

Counter-clockwise (unscrew) = more tension = easier shift to larger cogs (easier gears)
Clockwise (screw in) = less tension = easier shift to smaller cogs (harder gears)

Memory trick: If the derailleur hesitates shifting toward the spokes, turn the barrel toward the spokes (counter-clockwise).

The Process

Shift to smallest cog (highest gear, loosest cable)
While pedaling, click shifter once to move to second-smallest cog
Listen and watch: a perfect shift is immediate—the click of the shifter produces an instant, synchronized clunk as the chain drops to the new cog. No delay, no chatter, no hesitation.
If chain doesn’t move or hesitates: add tension (counter-clockwise, quarter turn)
If chain overshoots to third cog: reduce tension (clockwise, quarter turn)
Repeat until shift is crisp—that satisfying mechanical snap of chain engaging cog teeth in perfect time with your shifter click
Test through full range, both directions. Each gear should engage with the same authority.

Beyond Cable Tension

If barrel adjustment doesn’t fix shifting:

Limit screws: May be misadjusted, allowing derailleur to move too far or not far enough. High limit (H) stops derailleur at smallest cog; low limit (L) stops at largest. Adjust only if derailleur actually hits limits.
Bent derailleur hanger: Common after bike falls on drive side. Hanger alignment requires a special tool—shop work.
Worn cables/housing: Old cables fray and drag; old housing compresses. Replace if adjustment doesn’t hold.
Worn chain/cassette: Stretched chain or shark-fin cogs won’t shift well regardless of adjustment. Measure chain wear; replace before it damages cassette.

Maintenance Schedule

Before every ride: M-check

Weekly (or every 100-150 miles):

Wipe down frame and components
Lube chain if needed
Check tire pressure

Monthly (or every 500 miles):

Deep clean drivetrain
Inspect brake pads
Check cables for fraying
Inspect tires for wear

Seasonally (or every 1,500-2,000 miles):

Professional tune-up
Replace chain if worn
Inspect bearings (headset, bottom bracket, hubs)
Check wheel true

As needed:

Replace brake pads when worn
Replace tires when tread is gone or casing shows
Replace cables when shifting/braking degrades despite adjustment

Essential Tools

For rides:

Multi-tool with hex keys and chain breaker
Tire levers
Spare tube and patch kit
Mini pump or CO2

For home:

Floor pump with gauge
Chain lube (wet and dry)
Degreaser
Rags and brushes
Hex key set (metric: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8mm)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat)
Chain wear indicator
Tire pressure gauge

Nice to have:

Bike stand (makes everything easier)
Cable cutters
Torque wrench (for carbon components)

The Sheldon Brown Legacy

For deeper knowledge, consult sheldonbrown.com—the legendary online resource built by mechanic and writer Sheldon Brown. Comprehensive articles on every aspect of bicycle repair, maintained by volunteers since Brown’s death in 2008. The site remains the reference for obscure components, historical techniques, and principled mechanical thinking.